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Revitalizing Northwest Coastal Indian Food Culture

Through sharing rich stories, old-world and environmental knowledge, we have discovered new ways of approaching a modern balanced diet based on the principles of historic Northwest Coastal Indian food.
By Valerie Segrest

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Nina Kahori Fallenbaum

Nina Kahori Fallenbaum, the food and agriculture editor of Hyphen magazine, uses independent media to engage Asian American communities in local and national food policy.

Fresh Ideas blog

New Roads to New Markets: Patty Cantrell does TEDx Manhattan

Posted Fri., February 17, 2012 at 10:34 am by admin

Filed under: TEDx

As TEDx talks spring up around the country, inspired by the original conference on "ideas worth spreading," IATP's Food and Community Fellows past and present keep showing up with great ideas of their own.

Patty Cantrell is a journalist, community organizer and consultant at Michigan-based Regional Food Solutions,  not to mention a 2008 Food and Community Fellow, and she recently offered her unique perspective at TEDx Manhattan.

Her talk, entitled "New Roads to New Markets" is drawing praise from around the web, including some fantastic local coverage in Southwest Michigan, for its passionate, articulate account of the new direction food is taking local economies across the country.

Many Americans, she says, are "washed out" of our massive, too-centralized superhighway of a food system. But as people find new ways to connect food with communities and communities with each other, Patty argues that we're creating a new, tightly networked, decentralized system with good food as the ties that bind us together. "We are making our way back to each other," she says, and that builds an enduring system where people know and care for one another and get better food in the process.

For the Love of Food

Posted Tue., February 14, 2012 at 3:33 pm by King Collier

By Andrea King Collier

Originally published on the Williams Sonoma Blog.

I cooked with my folks when I was little –cookies, breads, etc. but it wasn’t until I got out on my own that I fell in love with cooking. I got invited to a dinner with a group of women who were older than me. The food was amazing, but the conversation about cooking changed my life.  I was resistant to becoming a person who cooks. I wanted to be out changing the world, writing books and telling stories. I said as much, and well that was like throwing the gauntlet down. They talked about all their experiences in the kitchen and the joy they got from being “food artists.” They weren’t chefs. They were everyday women who saw the beauty in preparing food.

When someone dies, people cook food and bring it. It says “I love you. I care about you. We are bonded.” When someone who really knows what they are doing makes a cake, they channel love, creativity and art. When somebody is sick with a cold, you roll up your sleeves and make a chicken soup, that seems to have a healing power.  I had never looked at cooking in that way before I heard these women talk about the art of cooking, and the power of the cook.

I was so excited and rushed home to start my love affair with cooking. It didn’t take long for me to learn for myself that you can tell a whole story in a muffin. A gumbo is a history in a bowl. A hot homemade roll is a missive, a prayer.  So whenever I get so busy that I forget about the power of the pot, the magic of a sharp knife, or the spell of the last of the cream cheese frosting in the bowl, because I am off creating stories, I go back to the kitchen and fall in love again. For me, cooking, and the ability to create in that way is one of the arrows that points to my true north.

Growing food sovereignty in the desert

Posted Tue., February 14, 2012 at 2:46 pm by Abigail Rogosheske

What's growing in the literal "food desert" in the Paso del Norte region of southern New Mexico and El Paso, Texas? A whole lot more than pecans for export and childhood obesity, if the folks at La Semilla Food Center have anything to do with it. Last month Tracie McMillan caught up with La Semilla Farm Fresh Director and IATP Food and Community Fellow Rebecca Wiggins-Reinhard for a Q and A on Grist. Here's an excerpt:

Q. Colonias are known for lacking things like roads and water lines. What does that mean for food?

A. There are very small grocery stores and little corner stores, but they don’t always have the healthiest or the freshest food available and that’s really part of our work — to pilot market stands in the community to increase access to that fresh food. There’s no organic food, there’s very little choice. Most of these colonias are in very rural areas, and you have to have a car or know someone who can give you a ride. We did a [community food] survey with our youth in 2009, and everyone said they go to Las Cruces or El Paso [to buy groceries]; it’s 20-30 miles, and there’s no public transportation. People prefer to have healthier choices and more options, so they’ll drive elsewhere.

Q. A small town in Maine just passed a food sovereignty law, and there are a number of U.S. organizations beginning to talk about that idea, which is the belief that having access to healthy food and retaining control of its production is an essential human right. How does food sovereignty factor in to your work?

A. I have a lot of experience with communities in Chiapas, Mexico, where I worked with a weaving cooperative. The reason they have to sell their products is they are no longer able to farm their land for subsistence. We should be able to grow enough food for our own subsistence if we choose to, and use our land the way we want without having powerful corporations make choices for us. I think food sovereignty is also tied to being able to save seeds that are GMO- and chemical-free, and having more choices that aren’t determined by corporations.

I think our work is entirely in line with [food sovereignty]. We will be growing desert foods and things you can’t find in the grocery store [at the youth farm], like amaranth. Right now, much of what’s grown in New Mexico is shipped out, and we can really grow our local economy if we sell our food here instead of selling to an outside company.

Q. Desert farming? Could you really feed a modern community on that?

A. In southern New Mexico, we have a year-round growing season. It’s pecan, cotton, alfalfa for most of it, [and] you can grow so much here with modest season extension techniques; there are 550 varieties of fruits and vegetables that can grow here. The problem in the desert is water [and] our farm is also meant to show that we can use dry land farming techniques.

Read the full article on Grist.

Healthy Trends in School Cafeterias

Posted Mon., February 13, 2012 at 4:08 pm by King Collier

Filed under: Child Nutrition, school lunch

By Andrea King Collier

First published in the healthymagination Healthy Outlook Blog.

First Lady Michelle Obama recently honored the work of 1,273 schools that participated in the Healthier U.S. School Challenge at the White House.   The initiative focuses on recognizing the efforts of schools participating in the National School Lunch Program, which are using improved nutrition and more physical activity to create healthier school environments. While the Challenge has been around since 2004, Mrs. Obama breathed new energy into the initiative when she included it into the Let’s Move campaign in 2010.

One of the honorees, the Kunsberg School, in Denver, was recognized for its work in feeding the 90 chronically ill students from grades K-8, who all participate in the school lunch program there. Each student at the school receives a free nutritious breakfast and lunch that includes fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as low-fat and non-fat milk every school day.

While it can be challenging to make strides in improving the nutrition of children at a school, Kunsberg has benefited from being a part of the National Jewish Health campus and having access to its resources. According to Joe Reid, the director of education at the school, one of the staff nutritionists at National Jewish Health oversees all the planning and preparation of the meals for the students. “Health, nutrition, 40 minutes per day of physical education, and academic achievement are priorities at Kunsberg; and the school has made a conscious effort to make positive changes that carry over into each child’s lifestyle,” Reid says.

Many school districts around the country see the links between providing healthy food to children and making a dent in the childhood obesity epidemic. According to a national survey by the School Nutrition Association released in August, 98 percent of school districts now offer fresh fruits and vegetables, and 89 percent offer salad bars or pre-packaged salads. 63 percent provide vegetarian meals. Whole-grain foods are readily accessible at 97 percent of schools. The findings show considerable progress in improving the quality of meals served to nearly 32 million children on school days.

But improving nutrition is not always easy. Cheryl Danley, outreach specialist for the C.S. Mott Group for Sustainable Food Systems at Michigan State University, and an IATP Food and Community Fellow, says that school districts are being creative to address the healthy eating needs of students, while holding the line on budgets. “Costs do not need to be a barrier,” Danley says. She points to the Detroit Public Schools, which have been able to institute meatless meal days, to help offset the costs of providing fresh local foods. And while farm-to-school programs and healthy meals are in the national spotlight now, Danley says “many food service directors have been trying bring this into the school all along.“

Read the full article.

Community health through traditional foods

Posted Fri., February 10, 2012 at 4:50 pm by Abigail Rogosheske

Filed under: traditional foods

You might assume that a nutritionist would be keeping tally primarily on the likes of protein and omega-3s in a salmon fillet, but for IATP Food and Community Fellow and Muckleshoot Food Sovereignty Project coordinator Valerie Segrest, the connection to our food, or as she puts it, "the meaning of food and what it has to teach us" is at the forefront. Segrest and her community in the Muckleshoot Indian Tribe believe that traditional foods tie a community to the land and provide a sense of place--the real key to community health: “Having traditional food available and for people to be able to eat those foods is not just about individual health, its about the health of the community."

A recent video from the Northwest Indian Fisheries Commission explores this important perspective on community health while leading us step-by-step through preparing salmon--from "sweet meat" to the tanning of the skin for crafts like pouches and wallets.

For more information, please read the full article from the Northwest Indian Fisheries Commission and visit the Muckleshoot Food Sovereignty Project website.

Abolish the Food Industry

Posted Wed., February 8, 2012 at 2:08 pm by Raj Patel

 First published in The Atlantic.

In the fall of 2008, San Francisco polished its progressive credentials by banning something. From October 1, 2008, the sale of cigarettes was prohibited in certain places. You could still buy them in convenience stores, of course, and bodegas, gas stations, and even the occasional bar. But the city thought that perhaps it was a bad idea to allow them to be sold in pharmacies. As the city attorney, Dennis Herrera, put it: "Consumers -- and especially young people -- should reasonably expect pharmacies to serve their health needs, not to enable our leading cause of preventable death."

Pharmacy and tobacco executives were apoplectic. The Walgreens pharmacy chain argued that they needed to be allowed to sell cigarettes so that they might counsel people on how to quit. The tobacco industry was upset too. From the hallowed garden of constitutional law, it argued that the ban was an infringement of its First Amendment rights to free speech. Big Smoke argued that it was being muzzled by an over-reaching government marching down the road to tyranny. The judge who heard the case took a dim view of this logic, pointing out that while advertising is a form of free speech, "selling cigarettes isn't." The ban continues.

The cigarette industry survives, as does its advertising. Cigarette companies' rights to free speech have, however, been curtailed on grounds of public health, and for the health of children above all. Joe Camel isn't familiar to children today, as he was in the 1970s, because most people agree that it's probably a bad idea to have a hip smoking cartoon character to which kids aspire, even if the company behind it swears blind it was just going after the pro-dromedary slice of the adult market.

Alcohol is similarly circumscribed, again with an eye to public health and, again, with a particular concern for young people. But if public health is a legitimate reason to curb corporations' advertising to kids, why limit bans to cigarettes and booze, and not include, say, unhealthy food?

A paper in the latest issue of Nature by Robert Lustig, Laura Schmidt, and Claire Brindis fuels the debate, pointing to the long-term similarities of sugar and alcohol consumption. The paper's authors freely admit that a little sugar is fine, but "a lot kills -- slowly." They argue that sugar meets the same four generally accepted public health criteria used to regulate alcohol: it is unavoidable, toxic, has the potential for abuse, and has a negative impact on society. Which is why they suggest restrictions on advertising of sugary processed foods, lauding another of San Francisco's bans -- the one that prevents toys being given away with unhealthy fast food meals.

Given the food industry's power, and fears of a nanny state, it's unsurprising that the paper's authors are caught in a flame war.

I side with the American Psychological Association in thinking that advertising to children is unconscionable. Rather than dwell on the First Amendment issue, which strikes me as an easy case to make, I think it's worth addressing a deeper question underlying the San Francisco cigarette-in-pharmacy ban: Why allow an industry that profits from the sale of unhealthy food at all?

Read the full article at theatlantic.com.


 

Lenders Learn how to Bank on Small Farms, Local Food

Posted Tue., February 7, 2012 at 2:29 pm by Cantrell

By Patty Cantrell

Published on the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition Blog; featured by the Meridian Institute as a story of the day.

Nic Welty employs himself full time year-round raising lettuce, spinach, and other leafy greens in three low-cost passive solar greenhouses, which together cover less than one acre of land.

His Nine Bean Rows farm near Traverse City, MI, is one of many smaller, diversified, often first-generation farms in the country that defy expectations, particularly among bankers and others with money needed to finance the new food enterprises.

Most find it difficult to pencil out the possibility that such a niche farm business could reliably make enough money to grow.  Yet as Welty explains, “This business is good enough to take a cash advance on a credit card and run with it.”

The fact that many smaller niche farmers must do just that is alarming to a growing group of activist lenders and small farm business advisors.  They say it’s high time to line up resources behind the nation’s new farm entrepreneurs and the new jobs, food supply, and local commerce they are building.

Read the full article.

Introducing Food Hubs, Starring Common Market

Posted Mon., February 6, 2012 at 3:00 pm by admin

 One of the ways that good, healthy food gets relatively expensive is through the involvement of numerous middlemen between the farm and the consumer. Food Hubs are a new way of doing business that helps consumers access locally grown food affordably, and Common Market Philadelphia is pioneering the model under the leadership of Food and Community Fellow Haile Johnston.

Common Market Philadelphia has expanded their operation dramatically in its first few years, now handling over a million dollars in local annual sales. They also have elegant new video featuring co-founder Haile Johnston, among others, explaining how Food Hubs work and have taken root in Philadelphia.

Food hubs aren't a fringe phenomenon; The United States Department of Agriculture has also taken notice and is increasingly invested in researching and developing these new local distribution systems. They list resources and findings on their website regarding the efficacy of food hubs across the country, and even keep tabs on food hub-related headlines.

USDA states officially that food hubs "offer strong and sound infrastructure support to producers across the country which will also help build a stronger regional food system." USDA is concerned about obesity and food security in America, and food hubs may be part of the answer to both problems.

Reinventing the CSA

Posted Fri., February 3, 2012 at 10:55 am by Jane Black

 If it’s February, it must be time to feel guilty.

It’s not because I’ve broken any new-year diet resolutions. (I don’t make any.) It’s because I will not join a CSA.

Community-supported agriculture programs, or CSAs, traditionally offer a weekly box of seasonal produce from a local farm. Customers pay upfront so the farmer has the cash on hand to buy seeds and equipment, and a guide for what and how much to grow. (Some plans also require that members put in a few hours’ work on the farm.) In exchange they receive an assortment of whatever is ready for harvest that week. That might mean a lot of greens in early spring and an overload of tomatoes in high summer — or if there’s a blight, no tomatoes at all. The benefit, or so they tell me, is that participation supports local growers and teaches families to cook with what Mother Nature provides rather than the global panoply of foods available year-round at the grocery store.

Maybe. But a model designed to serve the producer and not the customer will never be, well, sustainable. And in my experience, CSA customers get the short end of the stick. If I take a vacation in the summer, I pay for food I never receive. If I want more food one week to throw a party and less the next? Tough luck.

The good news, as I write in my latest Smarter Food column for The Washington Post, is that farmers and a new crop of food entrepreneurs are getting the message that, at least some of the time, the customer should have options. Flexible CSA models are sprouting up around the country, proving that subscription services can work for farmers and consumers. Some, dubbed multi-farm CSAs, offer produce from a network of small farms for more variety. Others let customers choose what and how much goes into their weekly box or use pre-paid credit at the farmers market or online.

Do you belong to a CSA? Do you think it’s fabulous? Or too restrictive? Check out my column and let me know what you think.

"Vulture" capitalism or just plain capitalism?

Posted Thu., February 2, 2012 at 10:33 am by Flaccavento

 By Anthony Flaccavento

Originally published on the Huffington Post.

"He's a vulture capitalist." -- Rick Perry, on Mitt Romney's activities at Bain Capital.

"If we identify capitalism with rich guys looting companies, we're going to have a hard time protecting it... because people look over and say, 'How come I lost all my savings and you stayed a millionaire?'" -- Newt Gingrich, alluding to Mitt Romney.

"Dodd-Frank obviously is a disaster... But Sarbanes-Oxley costs a trillion dollars, too. Let's repeal that, too!" -- Ron Paul, echoed by Michele Bachmann and others, referring to laws designed to restrain the financial industry.

The Republican candidates for president have collectively dug themselves into a hole. In the rush to discredit front-runner, Mitt Romney, they've taken turns assailing him for being rich and out of touch with ordinary Americans, called him a "vulture capitalist," and suggested his wealth has come at the expense of American workers.

Funny, but this sounds a lot like a "war on success" to me. You know, the one that GOP leaders have repeatedly accused President Obama of waging.

Romney's offense is that he made (or added to) his riches while running Bain Capital, a private equity firm. Private equity firms borrow money from wealthy investors, using the funds to purchase companies. Once they are majority owners, they decide to either help the company grow, downsize it, or change management in order to increase profitability. It is very similar to the practice we used to call "leveraged buyouts," where one big company buys a smaller competitor in order to gain more market share or reduce its competition. That's how companies like Citibank, Wells Fargo and AIG became "too big to fail." These acquisitions and mergers sometimes create jobs (at least in the short run); other times, they lead to employment loss, off-shoring of jobs, or erosion in wages and benefits. The point is that for companies like Bain Capital or Citibank, jobs -- and a whole lot of other things -- are beside the point. It's making a return for investors that counts.

Rick Perry has labeled this "vulture capitalism." The real name for it is simpler: capitalism.

Read the full article.